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| Folklife Festival 2003 > Appalachia> Appalachian
Foods |
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| appalachian
foods |
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Stack cakes, shuck beans, chicken 'n' dumplings,
soup beans, and fried apple pies-- important regional foods of Appalachia.
Add biscuits and gravy, fried apples, chow chow, and gritted corn
bread, and this food reveals roots in the cultures of Europe, Asia,
America, and Africa. Long before peanut butter and mayonnaise found
a place in Appalachian kitchens, Native Americans hunted black bear,
buffalo, elk, and whitetail deer. They gathered hickory nuts, black
walnuts, American chestnuts, persimmons, and fox grapes, and they
domesticated corn, pumpkin, squash, and beans.
When Americans became fascinated with regional foods in the 1970s,
the ingenuity and integrity of Appalachian foodways were well established
and deserving of recognition. The Foxfire Book, published in 1972,
was among the first to give wide national attention to Appalachian
food including dried green beans or "leather britches,"
dried pumpkin, sauerkraut, pickled beets, souse or hog's head cheese,
stew, watermelon pickles, and methods of preserving such as burying,
bleaching, drying, distilling, and churning. In the mountains, communities
began organizing street festivals to celebrate regional foods and
established days or whole weeks to honor sorghum, apples, honey,
ramps (a kind of wild garlic), maple syrup, dandelions, bean soup,
fried chicken, bourbon, buckwheat, and even squirrels.
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| Coming to the Festival... |
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| Susan Bridges, Meadows of Dan,
Virginia |
| Susan Bridges learned
from older family and friends what greens and other natural sources
of food to pick, mix, and eat. She has practiced natural foraging
and has begun developing a business around dried and canned food products,
such as wild strawberry jam and blue violet jelly. |
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| Kim Carroll, Clintwood, Virginia |
| Kim Carroll is a
food product entrepreneur who cans and sells vegetables such as pickled
beans, corn, and mixed pickles. Her grandmother's recipe that she
uses for mixed pickles is said to be one of the best in the country. |
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| Linda Childress, Clintwood,
Virginia |
| Linda Childress is
a food product entrepreneur who is developing dry mixes for biscuits
and varieties of gravy. She is also known for making anything out
of apples, including pies, dumplings, and apple butter. |
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| Harvey Christie, Romney, West
Virginia |
| Harvey Christie
is a chef and owner/operator of Gourmet Central, a business that markets
fine jams and jellies. |
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| Lacey Griffey, Benham, Kentucky |
| Lacey Griffey prepares
a big Sunday dinner that includes fried chicken, cabbage, greens,
fruit cobblers, and pies. She is part of the African-American coal
mining community of the Benham-Lynch-Cumberland area of Kentucky. |
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Gerald Hawkins, Knoxville,
Tennessee
Greg Golden, Treadway, Tennessee |
| Gerald Hawkins prepares
Mexican-style dishes, inspired by his Mexican-American son-in-law.
He specializes in salsa that he cans and sells. He is accomanied by
Greg Golden, chef and manager of Clinch-Powell Community Kitchen,
a food processing facility. |
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| Marie Junaluska, Cherokee,
North Carolina |
| Marie Junaluska is
a member of the Eastern Band of the Cherokee Tribe who specializes
in traditional cooking of that community: chicken, greens (cabbage,
mustard, and turnip), breads (lye dumplings, bean and corn bread),
and potatoes (fried, boiled, and stewed). |
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| Bennie Massey, Lynch, Kentucky |
| A retired coal miner
from the Benham-Lynch-Cumberland region of Kentucky, Bennie Massey
is well known in his community as an expert barbeque chef. |
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| Fred McClellan, Abingdon, Virginia |
| Fred McClellan was
a tobacco farmer-turned-shiitake mushroom-grower for chefs around
Abingdon restaurants. He also has 20 years of food service background
operating his Hillbilly Food Store business, specializing in mountain
staples such as chicken, catfish, taters, breakfast biscuits, potato
salad, beans, and hotdog chili |
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