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Resist-dyed cloths in a variety of patterns and brilliant colors
are everywhere in Mali=s textile markets today. The three most common
techniques are tie-and-dye, stitch-resist, and wax-resist dyeing.
Tie-and-dye involves binding up cloth or wrapping it around small
objects prior to dyeing. In stitch-resist dyeing the cloth is sewn
or gathered in folds either by hand or machine before it is dyed.
Wax-resist involves painting or stamping designs in a starchy paste
or in wax onto the surface of the cloth prior to immersing it in
the dye vat.
The most popular resist-dyed cloths are made from imported broadloomed
damask. These damasks allow for more intricate and precise cutting
and tailoring than handwoven strip cloth.
The desire for the new and fashionable drives the market, and cloth
dyers, most of whom are women, are constantly creating new patterns
or rearranging old ones in new configurations. Malians associate
these resist-dyed textiles with modernity, wealth, change, and fashion.
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