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Folklife Festival 2003 > Mali > Textiles > Dyeing
 
dyeing
 
EMBELLISHING CLOTH: RESIST DYEING
 
"Knotting gives fabric different designs"
—Aminata Sacko
 

Resist-dyed cloths in a variety of patterns and brilliant colors are everywhere in Mali=s textile markets today. The three most common techniques are tie-and-dye, stitch-resist, and wax-resist dyeing. Tie-and-dye involves binding up cloth or wrapping it around small objects prior to dyeing. In stitch-resist dyeing the cloth is sewn or gathered in folds either by hand or machine before it is dyed. Wax-resist involves painting or stamping designs in a starchy paste or in wax onto the surface of the cloth prior to immersing it in the dye vat.

The most popular resist-dyed cloths are made from imported broadloomed damask. These damasks allow for more intricate and precise cutting and tailoring than handwoven strip cloth.

The desire for the new and fashionable drives the market, and cloth dyers, most of whom are women, are constantly creating new patterns or rearranging old ones in new configurations. Malians associate these resist-dyed textiles with modernity, wealth, change, and fashion.

 
 
Coming to the Festival...
 
Modern Tie Dye, Tantou Sambake, Bamako
—Tantou Sambake grew up in a family of dyers. She studied industrial chemistry at the School of Industry, Commerce, and Administration. Now she trains women at her school in tie-dye and business, environmental protection, safety, safe disposal of dye materials, and in literacy. Men learn to sew the designs into the fabric and undo the sewing after the dyeing process. Her company, Tantou Teintures, now exports textiles.

 
Modern Tie Dye, Aminata Sakho, Bamako
—Aminata Sakho learned tie dying from her mother. She belongs to Amiart Association and exports fabrics throughout West Africa.
 
Fabric finisher, Sanounou Bathily, Bamako
—Sanounou Bathily who irons fabric by beating it flat, works for his uncle, Issa Bathily, who is one of the largest tie dyers in Mali. The process makes the fabric shiny, smooth, and more attractive.

 
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